Seems the Italians were extremely moody this season. Capes, black and navy, structured lines or extreme layering. Oh, and copious amounts of gothica. A citrus palette appeared seemingly to break up up the black; pops of red, apricot, and bright yellow and orange were seen in multiple collections. Prada and Marni were two of the only labels favouring bright colour and print. Now don’t get me wrong, I loved this. Love me some gothica.
On a side note, does anyone else just want Blumarine to stop its existence? I have never liked one piece in any collection. I dont know if this is a popular opinion or whether I’m just a bitch. Anyone?
- Gianfranco Ferré – Just everything. The gorgeous flattery of the lines, the structured layering. The muted colours, wine, navy and black. So simple, yet so incredibly beautiful.
- Gabriele Calangelo – Fantastically strange shapes and silhouettes, gorgeous sprayed rows of colour, interesting use of brocade, and the best colour palette.
- Marni – Capes and big pockets and layers of fur and sixties era prints, lovely! Just lovely.
- Ter et Bantine – Evil and moody. Simple cuts and simple lines from leather, with a simple but effective desert print mixed in at the end. It was hard to choose eight, I loved every look.
- Versace – Gothica gothica Lisbeth Salander gothica. Crosses everywhere, manic prints, keyhole-esque patterns, boots, chains, pops of citrus but mainly black, and evening dresses for the tough girls. Short fringes, I really hope it catches on.
- Prada – prints prints prints. My eyes went fuzzy… in a good way. Miuccia created a collection for a kind of awkward extrovert. Print suits with brogue or mary jane tall tall flatforms, giant jewels on wrapped jackets and dresses, with briefcase-esque bags. The first part of this show was like Wall St for the insane. It was awesome.
- Jil Sander – Well, I nearly burst into tears at Raf’s farewell. This was probably spurred on by Kinga Rajzak sobbing as she walked in the finale down the runway. Raf, what a goodbye though. This collection was so you, so simple, yet entirely complex at the same time. The feminine colours at the beginning vs the tougher red and black at the end, the coats that needed to be touched and held, elements of silver, tucks in dresses and skirts to reveal a burst of colour. Everything was perfect. Sad and romantic, yet tough enough to carry on. Perfect.
Paris FW post will be up as soon as I stop salivating over EVERYTHING. Prepare for a big ‘un. Cx